A'PIEU Madecassoside Sun Cream SPF39 PA++
The journey to find a pleasant "physical" based, inorganic, sunscreen is an ongoing struggle. Even though all brands who use only Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide in their sun protection products say it will leave no white cast, the reality is usually far from true. A'PIEU's Madecassoside Sun Cream SPF 39 PA++ has surprised me in many ways during its run in my routine. Of the SPF I have tried so far, it is a rare one that gets closer to what I wish an inorganic sunscreen could be.
A'PIEU's description:
Anti-wrinkle & brightening, multi-functional cosmetic, skin sensitivity test completed. Madecassosside sun cream soothes and repairs skin as well as protect it from UV rays.
Madecassosside: repairs skin, calms sensitivity, strengthens skin, brightens skin, anti-wrinkle
It is a component of Centella extract, known for its soothing and repairing properties. Even sensitive skin types can use it without concerns, absolutely chemical free, pure cream.
This cream contains an extra 40% of Centella extract additional to the Madecassosside. Light cream applies on softly, leaving no white residue and absorbing quickly.
Directions
At the last step of your skincare routine, apply the needed amount onto face and gently pat to aid absorption.
Apply onto the neck, arms, and legs, or any areas that are more frequently exposed to the sun. Continuously apply if sun exposure prolongs.
Apply multiple thin layers to create a more effective and stronger barrier against the sun.
Ingredients
CENTELLA ASIATICA LEAF WATER, CYCLOPENTASILOXANE, DIBUTYL ADIPATE, WATER(AQUA), DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL, CYCLOHEXASILOXANE, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, ZINC OXIDE, PHENYL TRIMETHICONE, PEG-10 DIMETHICONE, HYDROGENATED POLY(C6-14 OLEFIN), NIACINAMIDE, ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE, SODIUM CHLORIDE, STEARIC ACID, DIMETHICONE, DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE, BEESWAX(CERA ALBA), CETYL PEG/PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE, DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE, CHLORPHENESIN, TRIETHOXYCAPRYLYLSILANE, OENOTHERA BIENNIS (EVENING PRIMROSE) FLOWER EXTRACT, CITRUS GRANDIS (GRAPEFRUIT) PEEL OIL, MADECASSOSIDE, DISODIUM EDTA, ADENOSINE, CITRUS LIMON (LEMON) PEEL OIL, GLYCERIN, ASIATICOSIDE, LAVANDULA HYBRIDA OIL, PELARGONIUM GRAVEOLENS FLOWER OIL, CITRUS NOBILIS (MANDARIN ORANGE) PEEL OIL, JUNIPERUS MEXICANA OIL, SODIUM HYALURONATE, 1,2-HEXANEDIOL
Sunscreen 40 g
A'PIEU (Korean retail): ₩9,000
Missha: USD $15.00
oo35mm: USD $14.99
BeautyBoxKorea: USD $9.53
RoseRoseShop: USD $7.89
Packaging
A flexible, opaque tube with a twist-off cap and pointed nozzle tip. There is no inner seal and the box that came with the sunscreen did not have a security seal/sticker either. This can be concerning but I think it is somewhat easy to tell if the product has been tampered with since a new tube feels filled to the brim with sunscreen.Color, Texture, Finish, & Scent
Sun "cream" may not be the best descriptor. While the product that comes out of the tube looking like a traditional white UV filter, the textural similarity end there once it is blended in. This sunscreen is very lightweight and has a consistency closer to a lotion. It spreads easily but does get some streaky strokes until the product is fully smoothed into the skin (as what body lotions typically do). I won't say there is absolutely no white cast, especially when used in larger amounts and in a concentrated area, but of all the "mineral" sunscreens I have tried so far the white cast for this is very very minimal.Unlike other Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide based products, this doesn't leave a dry matte finish; perhaps the best term would be satin matte, a.k.a. matte with a tiny bit of sheen. If I run my hands over wherever it is placed, I get no transfer but I do feel that something is there. Water seems to repel off the skin after application but I wouldn't say it is super waterproof. There is a tendency to catch onto dry patches and textural bumps. It has a strong citrus scent, almost household cleanser-like, straight out of the tube and while blending; luckily that smell is almost unnoticeable once it dissipates.
How I Apply
To be clear, I am not advertising this as the "correct" amount to apply for sufficient SPF 50 protection.Squeeze a line directly from the tube onto my forehead, a line across each cheek, two lines for my neck and one for my chest. Use only a finger or two to pat and even distribute the lines in their respective areas. Then lightly swipe and rub the product into my skin.
Squeeze 4 lines of product from the tube onto my forefinger, middle, ring, and pinky fingers. Use the other hand to lightly rub the product against the corresponding fingers to create an even layer. Pat across my face and lightly swipe/rub until blended. Repeat with 2-3 more lines of product for neck and chest.
Thoughts & Recommendations
The difference between the protection percentage of SPF 30 and SPF 50 may only be 1% (97% versus 98%) but a huge factor in whether our skin gets the said coverage depends on how well we apply sunscreen. Anything above SPF 50 is even more marginal of a difference. This is the main reason why I choose products with SPF 50, to compensate for when I don't apply enough sunscreen so that extra percentage will be of some help.I made an exception when I decided to buy the Madecassoside Sun Cream. Had it not swatched so well on my hand in the store, I honestly wouldn't have given it a second glance looking online only. My logic was if it could apply with such minimal white cast in larger amounts on the face I wouldn't hesitate to put the correct amount of sunscreen on for the full 97% protection.
Thankfully, my choice was not for naught. I could apply a full four fingers' lengths worth and my face doesn't turn a stark white or pink tone. It isn't overly drying and mattifying which is a huge welcome to my now less oily skin. While it isn't the most waterproof/water resistant sunscreen I have tried, it isn't too shabby either. The sunscreen stays in place all day, even against sun, wind, rain, oil, and tears, without disturbing my makeup or irritating my eyes. I have yet to experience any skin tans or burns in the areas I have applied it.
A'PIEU's claims for anti-wrinkle and brightening may be a stretch. But who am I to say when I have only used this for a couple of months at most. If anything the anti-wrinkle and brightening effect comes as a benefit of just wearing the sunscreen more in general than because of madecassoside's antioxidant properties. I can say this Sun Cream did not feel heavy nor clogged my pores to cause further acne. Whether it helps with long-term skin repair is hard to say with just one tube.
My biggest gripe with the sunscreen lies with the unpleasant smell straight out of the tube. I think it smells like ammoniated citrus bathroom cleanser. If the scent lingered for any longer than it does now I would definitely have abandoned the tube long ago. The second negative is the sizing. 40g is much smaller than normal (sunscreens tend to be at least 50 g or 50 ml). Given the price US retailers sell it for, which is closer to USD $15 than the less than USD $9 at Korean retail, it calculates to be quite pricey. A third con would be the low PA rating despite it having both Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide. Both in conjunction are known to provide good protection against both UVA and UVB yet the SPF and PA of the Sun Cream are much lower than expected. This only leads me to question how much of the sun protectors are actually in it.
Madecassoside Sun Cream isn't the perfect, end all be all, "physical" sunscreen. People talk a lot about cosmetic elegance now and I think it is a great way to describe this texture. It is a product I like to apply because it spreads and blends well without irritating my eyes. The least cosmetically elegant thing about it would just be the scent yet that is a personal preference kind of thing. I would recommend this for those who want something fuss-free in the mornings and isn't too picky about the numbers on the packaging. All skin types should like it but those with very dry and/or flaky skin may want to exfoliate well before use to get optimal results. People with sensitive skin should be careful since there are a few essential oils in its formulation.
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