Showing posts with label Food. Show all posts

Singapore Eats

New York may be one of the most culturally diverse cities, but there are still many cultures and countries that aren't as well represented as others in the food scene. Chinese and Japanese cuisines were the forerunners in the Asian restaurant category. Korean food has grown steadily as all things Korean become ever more popular. Thai, Vietnamese, Malaysian, and Filipino eateries are specialties that exist and are slowly gaining a larger foothold even on non-Asian foodies' "To Try" lists.

Singapore is a country that is very under-represented in New York City's food world. It could be that the Singaporean food culture and hawker centers don't translate as well here or maybe foods that are similar to Singaporean cuisine could also be found in existing establishments since the country itself is a melting pot of many Asian immigrants.

It is safe to say that my most memorable moments of Singapore are all food related. Being able to taste various local eats was just as exciting as exploring new sights. Everything was new in one way or another. Not every single thing I ate there was out-of-this-worldly delicious. Certain foods suited my taste buds more than others. The trip to Singapore wasn't solely about eating the best of any one kind of food, rather it was just to try new types of food that I haven't had before.

lavlilacs Singapore traditional breakfast kaya toast eggs milk tea

Coffee & Toast, Singapore Changi Airport.

Kaya toast (toast with coconut jam and butter) with onsen egg and teh peng (iced tea with condensed milk and sugar) are supposedly the representative breakfast and snack combo in Singapore. I almost left the country without having tried it once. Kopitiam stops (coffee shop) were never needed as neither my Aunt nor I drink coffee; plus, we favored another thirst quencher during our visit.

Had I known how delicious yet simple and affordable this food pairing would be, I would have made sure to have it at least once or twice more as an energy booster. Although kaya is a jam, it isn't nearly as sweet as the typical berry varieties are. The addition of the runny eggs and butter help to balance out the sweetness of the jam and the dryness of the toasted bread.

My trip to Asia also affected my preferences in milk tea. Hong Kong and Singapore's choice of pairing condensed milk or evaporated milk with black tea brings a whole new world of differences that regular milk and even half & half cannot compare to. While the latter two can water down the flavors of the tea, the former two (I feel) add a creaminess while enhancing the tea. If that makes any sense at all. To simply put it, condensed milk + tea yields a stronger tea taste and milk + tea yields a weaker tea taste.

lavlilacs Singapore Din Tai Fung earl gray ice tea

Din Tai Fung, Marina Bay Sands, Marina Bay.

The best drink I had in Singapore was an unassuming cup of lemon earl gray iced tea from Din Tai Fung. Yes, my favorite item from Din Tai Fung Singapore was a glass of tea and not the soup dumplings. Not that the food I had was bad or anything like that. The tea just blew my mind.

Maybe it is was the use of frozen earl gray tea in place of typical water-based ice cubes? Perhaps the tea Din Tai Fung sourced is of very high-quality? Or is it possible that they use a very concentrated earl gray tea base? Whatever the reason, this was the single best cup of cold lemon tea I have ever had! The closest comparison I can think of would be to say it was like the natural and less-sweet version of a can of Brisk or Nestea. The tea flavor was so concentrated yet not cloyingly sugary. The ball of frozen tea became slush-like as it melted throughout the meal.

Ah~ I still can't stop thinking about it! I wonder if this ice tea is available in Din Tai Fung's in other countries too or if it is a region specific item.

lavlilacs Singapore Chinatown Complex popiah lavlilacs Singapore Chinatown Maxwell Food Center Pan Cake[

Ann Chin, Chinatown Complex Market, Chinatown. & Weng Pan Cake, Maxwell Food Center, Chinatown.

Popiah and pan cake both look so familiar yet very different from anything I have ever eaten before. Popiah looks similar to a burrito but is much smaller in size. It is a bit big and not fried to call it a spring roll. The wrapper skin is very thin and filled to the brim with lettuce, carrots, sprouts, and some crunchy bits. This was definitely one of the few things I tried in Singapore that wasn't my cup of tea. For something that looks like it would be savory tasted surprisingly sweet.

Min chiang kueh (Hokkien for peanut pancake) is something my Airbnb host recommended in her nearby eateries guide. Even though at first glance it doesn't seem very special, these swirly treats are very unique. The pancake has a chewiness and airiness to it that the typical flapjacks lack. Desiccated coconut, sugar-peanut mixture, and red bean fillings are tried & true matches to anything remotely "cakey". I think my favorite may have been the peanut version because the crunchy texture paired well with the soft sweet roll. These min chiang kueh sell for 50 cents a piece. It is worth a try without having to commit to a lot at once.

lavlilacs Singapore Chinatown Maxwell fresh coconut stand
lavlilacs Singapore Chinatown Maxwell Food Center fresh coconut waterlavlilacs Singapore Chinatown Maxwell Food Center fresh coconut flesh

Maxwell Juice Bar, Maxwell Food Center, Chinatown.

Sipping fresh coconut water in the humid Singapore weather is second-to-none. It is almost impossible to miss it. Hawker centres are everywhere in the Singapore and most will have at least one vendor who sells fresh coconuts. It couldn't be any more practical since the vendors could easily crack open the coconut for you and the hawker centres have places where you can properly discard the remaining shells.

While drinking coconut water straight from the fruit is as good as it can get, I had no idea young coconut flesh could be so interesting. The meat is jelly-like and scrapes off easily. It made for a great bonus dessert.

lavlilacs Singapore Chinatown Maxwell Food Center Tian Tian Chicken vendorlavlilacs Singapore Chinatown Maxwell Food Center Tian Tian Chicken prices
lavlilacs Singapore Chinatown Maxwell Food Center Tian Tian Chicken

Tian Tian Chicken, Maxwell Food Center, Chinatown.

Tian Tian Chicken Rice at Maxwell Food Center is certainly on the top of my "Most Memorable" list. Hainanese chicken isn't a new dish to me. Yet the way the way Tian Tian Chicken Rice made it felt completely new. The meat was so smooth and tender. The breast meat wasn't dry or tough at all! The flavored rice was tasty and not overly fatty.

When any restaurant or food vendor has long lines of not only tourists but also locals waiting for food, it is safe to say that it would be a solid choice for a meal. Tian Tian definitely didn't disappoint. Chicken and rice are what they do (no really, they only do chicken, rice, and veggies) and they do both oh so well. My aunt and I enjoyed it so much that this was the only place we ate at twice during our short visit to Singapore. I am over the moon excited to hear that Anthony Bourdain is working to bring them over to NYC in the near future for his Asian style food center in Manhattan.

lavlilacs Singapore Sentosa Singapore Seafood Republic Chili Crab

Singapore Seafood Republic, Sentosa.

I am usually the last one to reach for crustaceans if it is ordered at big family dinners. So much work is needed to pick out such a small amount of meat. Some time ago I heard about Singapore's unique chili crab dish and how beloved it was by everyone who's tried it. Such praises kept it on my food radar despite my laziness for deshelling seafood.

It was unexpectedly quite difficult to find an eatery that served the dish that also wasn't too out of the way. I wanted to stop by Sentosa even more after I found that a place called the Singapore Seafood Republic served chili crab. This is definitely a very heavy dish for two people in the middle of the day, but once-in-a-lifetime chance, right?

The sauce of the dish is definitely the star: spicy but still sweet and tangy. There isn't enough crab meat for all the saucy goodness. My biggest regret is not knowing to order fried buns to use as a sauce mopping mechanism.

lavlilacs Singapore Orchard Road Riverside Indonesian BBQ Ayam Panggang Set

Riverside Indonesian BBQ, ION Orchard, Orchard Road.

With all the food courts and hawker centres available in Singapore, the choices for lunch and dinner are endless. A little too overwhelming especially for someone as indecisive as me. While the above foods were recommended in some way or another to me via a guide or internet review, Riverside Indonesian BBQ was something I stumbled upon completely by chance. My Aunt and I chose a random shopping mall on Orchard Road to have dinner and we chose different food vendors to buy our meals from. Without searching anything up, I chose to have some grilled chicken based on line size and scent alone.

The ayam panggang set (grilled chicken with curry rice, veggies, and fried egg) from Riverside was unlike anything else I've ever had. Probably because I have never had Indonesian food before. But still, the grilled chicken and their sauces were amazing! Saucy rice is my biggest weakness. There isn't anything else like slathering a layer or flavor over a plain bed of rice. I remember the meat being very tender and juicy. Yet the highlight of the dish, in my opinion, is whatever the dark caramelized sauce is which the chicken bathes in. Oh~ what I would do to be able to eat this combo again!

Skunk Vine Rice Cake Balls 烏芹藤圓 | Taishan Eats

lavlilacs | Taishan Eats 台山美食 | Skunk Vine Rice Cake Balls - Foo Keen Haang Yuan - 烏芹藤圓

Skunk vine. Stink vine. Chinese fever vine. Paederia foetida. All those names refer to one type of plant. Yet not one sound remotely appetizing. Before I decided to make a record of this recipe, I hadn't a clue what the name of this ingredients was in English or Chinese. It was just something that was a part of a food Grandma used to make occasionally and something that I liked.

Good thing for the internet! It seems like this plant originated from eastern and southern Asia and grows mainly in tropical, hot and humid, climates. Some sources classify the skunk vine as a type of weed due to its fast growing and invasive tendencies. In Taishan, it is sun-dried and ground into a powder to be used in various foods.

Foo keen haang yuan 烏芹藤圓 is what Grandma calls the dark green, almost black, chewy spheres in Taishanese. I took it upon myself to, quite literally, translate it into skunk vine rice cake balls. There are also a couple of other Chinese names for this as well, cow poop ball 牛屎圓 and chicken poop vine ball 雞屎藤圓. Again, neither are redeeming in any way, shape, or form. But they really don't taste as bad as the name would suggest. Honestly!

I am a huge sucker for nostalgia. Despite my curiosity to try new things, I can't help but also yearn to revisit old favorites I have fond memories of. Recounting all those memories I made in Asia the last few months got me thinking about these unfortunately named treats that I remember Grandma made. But let's face it, my popo isn't getting any younger and the amount of traditional homestyle foods she's made in the recent years have greatly diminished. If I were to crave these in the future and knock on wood Grandma cannot make these unique foods anymore, it would become a lost art of sorts. I thought it would be an interesting way to not only keep a record of Grandma's recipes and learn about some Chinese traditions but also to spend more time with my popo.

Even if no one else finds this interesting, this will be my digital library of personal recipes.



lavlilacs | Taishan Eats 台山美食 | Skunk Vine Rice Cake Balls - Foo Keen Haang Yuan - 烏芹藤圓 | Ingredients

Skunk Vine Rice Cake Balls - Foo Keen Haang Yuan - 烏芹藤圓

Dry ingredients mixture
3 cups rice flour 米粉
1 cup glutinous rice flour 糯米粉
1-3 tbsp of skunk vine powder 烏芹藤粉*

Sugar paste
1 package of Chinese brown sugar 冰片糖 (or 1.5 cups cane sugar)
1 cup rice flour 米粉
3 cups water 水

* The amount of skunk vine powder is totally up to personal taste. Skunk vine is supposed to have a very strong sulphuric taste. The very traditional foods made with it, I think, uses a lot of powder to achieve a really pitch black final product. But I find the taste is too strong for my liking if I put too much (the most I've tried is 4 tbsp). Sourcing skunk vine powder outside of China might be a little difficult even in densely Chinese populated areas.

Directions
1. Mix the dry ingredients together. (I prefer sheet pan or anything wide and shallow. But a big bowl works too.)
2. Place the sugar and half of the water into a pot and bring it to a boil.
3. Reduce flame to a low-medium heat after all the sugar has melted.
4. Mix 1 cup of rice flour and the remaining half of the water together. Mix well!
5. Pour the rice flour + water into the sugar syrup when after all the sugar is melted.
6. Keep stirring the simple syrup and rice flour mixture until it starts to bubble and thicken. Before careful to not to burn the bottom.
7. Add the piping hot sugar paste to the dry ingredients mixture a little at a time to form a dough. Not all of the sugar paste will be used! Add just enough for everything to come together and not be sticky. A little paste goes a long way.

I recommend using chopsticks at first to stir the paste and the flours quickly. As the flour starts to make little clumps of dough, put on powder-free plastic gloves and start kneading by hand. If you can tolerate insane heat, then feel free to go barehanded.

8. Knead for about 10-15 minutes or until whenever all the flour and paste fully incorporates to form a dough ball. The dough should be soft, pliable, not sticky, and won't crumble when squished. A texture similar to fresh Play-doh. Even having a drier dough is okay. As long as it can be rolled into balls and still holds its shape relatively well.
9. Wet a bamboo steamer or place a steamer cloth on a pan.
10. Shape the dough into small grape-sized balls. Dog shapes are optional.
11. Boil water in a wok or pot.
12. Reduce flame to a medium and place the steamer full of rice cakes inside.
13. Before covering it with the lid, generously sprinkle water all over the rice cakes to prevent too much sticking and give it a nice sheen.
14. Steam on a medium flame for 30 minutes or until the rice cakes are cooked through.
15. Eat and enjoy!

lavlilacs | Taishan Eats 台山美食 | Skunk Vine Rice Cake Balls - Foo Keen Haang Yuan - 烏芹藤圓 | Sugar paste

The sugar paste should ultimately look similar to the above photo. It won't bubble a ton but it will make small spurts and be a little bubbly. This is also completely edible as is.

lavlilacs | Taishan Eats 台山美食 | Skunk Vine Rice Cake Balls - Foo Keen Haang Yuan - 烏芹藤圓 | Dough ball lavlilacs | Taishan Eats 台山美食 | Skunk Vine Rice Cake Balls - Foo Keen Haang Yuan - 烏芹藤圓 | Dough portions

The key to forming the dough is to work fast while the sugar paste is hot. Grandma says that the sugar paste is what helps to make the final product a bit soft. The glutinous rice flour also gives a slight chewiness. But overall, it should be quite firm with some chew.

If too much sugar paste is added and the dough is too sticky, add a little more rice flour or glutinous rice flour to the dough. If the dough is too dry, add a little more paste. If there is no more paste, add a bit of water. There isn't an exact science to this. Grandma just did everything by feel and approximation. She called me foolish for wanting to know exact measurements.

lavlilacs | Taishan Eats 台山美食 | Skunk Vine Rice Cake Balls - Foo Keen Haang Yuan - 烏芹藤圓 | Dogs

One of my fondest memories with these rice cake balls are the dog-shaped treats. I remember loving to pick those out whenever Grandma made them when I was a kid. The reasons for making them were never clear to me. They were just cute and unique amongst a basket full of boring spheres.

I only just learned from Grandma that these skunk vine rice cake balls are actually made for a specific Lunar calendar holiday, March 3rd 三月三節. When questioned, popo said she didn't know the specific reason for making such a food and it was just a tradition she kept by. Foo keen haang yuan were made to be eaten. The dogs were made to be hung by the outermost door as a home protector from bad luck and evil spirits.

Besides the skunk vine balls, she said bao kok (or ham sui kok) and something called wah hoi are also made in celebration of the March 3rd holiday.

Grandma's dog making method:
Pinch out a tail. Followed by ears. Then four legs. Get a toothpick and poke up the eyes, nose, and mouth. Her highlight was, of course, including a butthole for accuracy.

lavlilacs | Taishan Eats 台山美食 | Skunk Vine Rice Cake Balls - Foo Keen Haang Yuan - 烏芹藤圓 | Sprinkle with water before steaming

Grandma uses bamboo baskets to hold the rice cakes. The hole-y nature of it helped to let any of the extra water through. If not the rice cakes at the very bottom of a pan would be too soggy. She also suggested to only have 2-3 layers of rice cakes in order to avoid having any uncooked ones at the center of the pile. Keeping the dog-shaped ones on top will help to dodge any accidental severings of its delicate body parts.

lavlilacs | Taishan Eats 台山美食 | Skunk Vine Rice Cake Balls - Foo Keen Haang Yuan - 烏芹藤圓 | Grandma's homestyle foods

lavlilacs | Taishan Eats 台山美食 | Skunk Vine Rice Cake Balls - Foo Keen Haang Yuan - 烏芹藤圓 | my dog versus Grandma's

Like I mentioned earlier, Grandma hasn't made these in a while. I had forgotten how her "dogs" looked. Would you agree and think her version (on the right) looks owl-esque?

4 Ways I Traveled - Winging It (Part 4)

Uncertainty is something that can be very unnerving. The list of if's, and's, or but's that could happen is just too lengthy to list. Learning to let go of the scariness of not knowing is difficult. We, well maybe just some of us, are told since young that there is one path in life: being born, growing up, going to school, getting a stable job, settling down, etc. The chances to stray from the path isn't common nor recommended. But, what if?

Being carefree and open minded to new experiences were my top goals of the extended trip. I guess I just wanted to have some time to live in the moment after following set plans and making plans for so long. Maybe I felt like this was an answer to grow mentally and break out of the shy shell I tend to coop myself up in. Maybe I followed one too many free-spirited influencers and just wanted to try something different from everyone else for a change: breaking expectations.

Structured bus tours, tag-a-long with Mom, and planned itineraries with Aunt were all styles of traveling that I don't regret. Sure, I had gripes with each but there were also many good things that came with each. But if I were to be completely honest, I had some of the most stress-free and interesting moments when I was able to let go and be more spontaneous. Going somewhere and doing things with no expectations will surely equate to something that is at the very least average and at the very most extraordinary. There is no way to feel regretful or upset about missing bullets from a non-existent itinerary.

lavlilacs Singapore Marina Bay Sands night lights show
lavlilacs Singapore Botanic Gardens orange yellow orchids lavlilacs Singapore Zoo bats
lavlilacs Singapore Chinatown Maxwell Food Center fresh coconut waterlavlilacs Singapore Chinatown Maxwell Food Center fresh coconut flesh


Singapore.

Of the places I traveled to with my Aunt, Singapore was the first where I had no daily plans for before arrival. Figuring out Tokyo took up all of the time my procrastinating self left for me. I also thought that Singapore would be the easiest of all places for an impromptu styled a trip. For one, my Aunt had already been before. Most people there speak English, if not also some form of Chinese, so communication wouldn't be an issue. Singapore has a relatively simple to navigate transit system. Plus, we could always ask our AirBnB host for recommendations.

Most of our plans for the day were usually decided on the night before with the help of the internet and various travel books our AirBnB home provided. Like in Japan, I chose to focus on certain areas of Singapore. One day we roamed around Marina Bay. Another day was spent at the day and night zoos. We also visited the botanic gardens, Orchard Road, Chinatown, and Sentosa.

I originally thought that weather would be a big issue since we were visiting Singapore during the monsoon season. But the rain surprisingly didn't last all day and instead came down in one big spurt. The sun shone as bright as ever after the daily downpour came and went. Even though the humidity in Singapore was unbearable at times, all the sunlight was very energizing.

lavlilacs China Kaiping Diaolou history
lavlilacs China Kaiping Diaoloulavlilacs China Kaiping Diaolou 2

Kaiping, China.

My plan, at first, was to wander around Hong Kong for a week or so before I departed from Asia altogether. The city was mainly a layover stop on my multi-month trip. Both my mom and Aunt insisted there wasn't much to do there and that everything was too expensive. But being the city girl that I am, exploring metropolis Hong Kong felt more appealing than going to dimsum and dinners every day in China.

Somehow my Aunt got me to follow her to China with the promises of doing things that my mom did not do: visit black sand beaches, soak in hot springs, and have an outdoor BBQ. All in the name of doing new things right?

Of the things she mentioned we would do, we only got to the outdoor BBQ with her friends. Unlike Western BBQ's, big hunks of meat weren't smoked or cooked on outdoor grills. The Chinese style BBQ involved sitting around a firepit with sausages, chicken wings, and other likes that are skewered and roasted over the open fire. The day was rainy and gloomy but still interesting and cozy.

I was a little disappointing we didn't end up getting to go to every place my Aunt had to mentioned. Expectations were raised but not all were met. Her substitution, however, wasn't all that bad. Instead of the beach and hot springs, she decided to take me to Kaiping to see the Diaolou. These type of buildings were historically supposed to be watchtowers. The ones we saw were more of a glorified ancestral home and museum built by immigrant families. It was fascinating to see and read about those families' histories since I knew so little about my own.

lavlilacs Hong Kong Lamma Island signs
lavlilacs Hong Kong Lamma Island streetlavlilacs Hong Kong Lamma Island mural

Lamma Island, Hong Kong.

My Aunt and I made a compromise, we would spend a few extra days in Hong Kong in exchange for me going to Taishan with her. I hadn't a clue what I would do in Hong Kong but I was glad to have the days available. My Aunt's main complaint was how crowded and polluted the city was. My best answer to that was visiting the quiet Lamma Island. Besides knowing the name from TVB shows, I wasn't familiar with the place at all. I looked up how to get there from our hotel and we had a day-trip adventure.

The ferry ride from Central to Lamma Island wasn't long, maybe around half an hour. Leaving the ferry pier led to a bunch of seafood restaurants so we had shrimp, clams, and crab for lunch. We found some signs with estimated walking times and took a hike from the island's northern village to its southern one. There was no rush to be somewhere by a certain time. We decided on everything as we came to it. If we missed a ferry, we waited. Everything about that day was laid-back and calm.

lavlilacs Korea Hongdae Bauhaus roomies group photo
lavlilacs Korea Seoul Bukchon Village persimmon tree lavlilacs Korea Seoul Gangnam Deux Amis Cafe

Seoul, Korea.

A big part of my original plan was to try to travel alone. Before my Aunt said she could join me in the travels, I was only going to be in Korea and Hong Kong by myself for a few weeks and then head home. (Why Korea and Hong Kong? They were the places my mom had to worry about me less in.) I had never truly lived away from people familiar to me before and curiosity got the best of me. Sure, I did study abroad; that was away from family and most of my friends. But I also had that experience with my best friend. There was never a situation I was in where I felt completely uncomfortable and had no one else but me to rely on. Being able to go through something new with her felt safe and encouraging.

I know I am extremely lucky to have the support of family and friends, to have people I can rely on. Tons of people don't or can't have that. Maybe it is the Asian/Chinese part of me, I never really imagined living apart from my family. I also always preferred to do things with friends and family: eating out, shopping, traveling, and even attending classes. What is familiar is reassuring.

There wasn't ever really a time where I thought twice about how I might be too closed off or that it doesn't have to be always "do together or don't do at all". When I had the opportunity to travel for an extended period of time, but no one else could, I joked about the idea of doing it myself. When else would I get the chance? Then I actually had the time to think about it twice. Seriously, when else would I get that chance? If not now, when?

It surprisingly didn't take much to convince my mom to the idea. Just a lot of nagging and insistence. As with anything, deciding at that moment was always the easiest. Going through with it required the courage. Would I stay in a hotel room by myself? Would I try a hostel and befriend other wanderlusts? Even up until the week before my flight to Seoul, I was hesitant.

Staying in a hotel, by myself, would have been the most comfortable option. I wouldn't have to worry about being too awkward around others. I could have woken up and gone to bed whenever I wanted. I would be in control of where I went and not go to the same places again. Yet, I wondered what being in a hostel was like and how sharing a space with other travelers was. What if this trip to Seoul wasn't to actually be in Seoul but to make friends and maybe be less introverted?

Curiosity got the better of me and I chose the latter option. I chose the most uncomfortable scenario for me in a somewhat familiar city. I stayed at Bauhaus Guesthouse in Hongdae and shared a room with a handful of girls who came from different parts of the world. I wandered Seoul with three of my many roommates and went to many places I had been before. Sometimes I acted as an amateur guide and sometimes I followed their leads. The activities and destinations were the same, yet the experiences and surroundings couldn't be more different.

All this, of course, can't change my personality. I cannot turn into an extrovert or optimistic suddenly. Nonetheless, I still tried to tackle nudge at some of my biggest fears: uncertainty, risk, and awkwardness.

4 Ways I Traveled - Planned to a T (Part 3)

lavlilacs Japan Tokyo Sumida Ryogoku Kokugikan mural

Japan followed closely behind Korea, Hong Kong, and Taiwan for the top spots on my travel list. I think most of my curiosity for these destinations, in particular, stemmed from all my TV and drama watching days. Every place felt familiar in a sense yet couldn't be more distant. I only knew the places through the way shows and photos portrayed them and I wanted to be there for myself one day.

Nowadays, the bigger pull to those destinations is mostly thanks to the bajillion and one Instagram posts and YouTube videos of all the delicious looking and unique food each place has to offer. It seemed like almost everyone and their friends or parents went to some part of Japan in the later half of 2015 and all of 2016. I was glad to see all the Japan posts because it helped me plan what I wanted to do in Tokyo pre-trip and I was able to reminisce and visit again through others post-trip.

lavlilacs Japan Tokyo Ueno Ameyayokocho

Saying I would like to visit and actually visiting were two different beasts. Despite passing through my mom's "NO, there's still radiation" hurdle and finding my Aunt as a willing travel partner a full 3 months before the trip was scheduled to take place, I did not prepare for it until a week before our flight. This was really the first time I was traveling where all the responsibilities were given to me. My Aunt told me I had free reign of where we would go, what we would do, where we would eat, etc.

I think maybe a part of me was going to just "go with the flow" it. But then I remembered that unlike the other places I traveled to before Japan, I had the least knowledge of Japan. I did not understand Japanese outside of greetings (ohayo & konnichiwa), thank you (arigatou gozaimasu), and let's eat (ikidakimasu). I had no idea how I would communicate or read signs once I was there. I was also very intimidated by their train system because someone once told me it was one of the most complex in the world, I think. The thought of getting lost and not being able to speak and be understood got me a little panicked.

lavlilacs Japan Itinerary Dec 4 2015 lavlilacs Japan Itinerary Dec 6 2015 lavlilacs Japan Itinerary Dec 9 to 12 2015

Like I said before, the good thing about tours is there no headache of planning. But to know that we could do things at a slower pace, see things I wanted to see and eat what I and where I wanted to eat was the most captivating. In order to prove myself capable of free-travel, I spent a good few sleepless nights researching.

It began with listing out major attractions and places of interest. Sensoji, Shibuya, Skytree, Tokyo Tower, Imperial Palace, and Mount Fuji to name a few. Then I started grouping things into general areas. Asakusa and Ueno were within a general walking distance, as were Tsukiji and Ginza and then Shinjuku and Shibuya. This helped with getting myself more familiar towards the layout of Tokyo. As I searched for popular restaurants and eateries, it was so much easier to plan out when I could visit.

Day 1 - Tsukiji, Ginza, Chiyoda
Day 2 - Roppongi, Shinjuku, Shibuya
Day 3 - Asakusa, Ueno
Day 4 - Hakone
Day 5 - Hakone, Odawara
Day 6 - Sumida, Ryogoku, Akihabara
Day 7 - Nikko
Day 8 -Tsukishima, Tsukiji, Akihabara, Asakusa
Day 9 - Travel day

Each of the 8 full days ended up being centered around a few adjacent neighborhoods. The common factor was that everything was walkable. If not then whatever took the least amount of public transportation. Doing so helped us avoid having too many train troubles, saved some money (changing to different train lines could cost extra), and allowed us to exercise and thereby eat more food.

9 days seems like a lot of time to be in Japan. Many people might choose to use the opportunity to go up and down the country to Osaka, Kyoto, Nara, and Tokyo in one go. I had thought about it at one point but decided against it for multiple reasons.

1. Last minute decisions meant I didn't know about the JR Pass for foreigners traveling in Japan until it was too late. It is a transportation pass which allows holders to take any trains, buses, and ferries that are run by the JR company for "free". It is included in the base price. But the JR Pass requires pre-ordering at least a week or more ahead of time so that it can be prepared and shipped to you OR you purchase it from an authorized seller. Both of which I couldn't do since I was in Korea at the time and the trip was literally days away.

2. Japan was the first stop for my Aunt and with possible jet lag, I wasn't sure how well she would be able to handle a 2-3 hour train ride from Tokyo to Osaka right after landing.

3. The itinerary for an Osaka, Kyoto, Nara, and Tokyo trip would have been really tight and quick. Even though I had no idea when I would ever be able to visit Japan again, I did not particularly want to breeze through any one place. If I stuck with just Tokyo and nearby cities, at least there would be a natural excuse for future Japan visits.

lavlilacs Japan Hakone Shrine lavlilacs Japan Tokyo Asakusa Sensoji

lavlilacs Japan Tokyo Meiji Shrine ema wishing plaques

My Aunt and I are not very religious people. Heck, my Aunt is not even the superstitious type. Nonetheless, it is almost impossible to visit Japan and not see temples and shrines. The architecture and history behind every one are extraordinary. Some were wonderful places to people watch and others were great to soak in the quietness and greenery which surrounded the buildings.

lavlilacs Japan Hakone ropeway Mount Fuji

lavlilacs Japan Hakone Pax Yoshino Hotel tatami sitting bedroom

Since I made the decision to focus on and around Tokyo, I could not miss the opportunity to see Mount Fuji. I consulted with some friends who had been before and scoured the internet for recommendations. Most resources pointed me to joining 1-Day guided tours of Hakone. Once I found out that Hakone was also an onsen (hot spring) area, it was a no-brainer to try and find our own way around so we could stay overnight. I chose to book at the Hakone Pax Yoshino Hotel for the price and location to Hakone Yumoto Station. It was also one of the few moderately priced onsen hotels that had in-room wood bath soaks and set meals available at the time.

It was much easier to travel around Hakone than originally anticipated. There is an Odakyu train line that runs from Shinjuku to Hakone. Once there, they already have a pre-planned route around the city that allows visitors to see Mount Fuji and Lake Ashi. The loop includes train rides, cable cars, ropeway cars, and even boat rides. This seems like it would be a headache because of all the potential tickets and places where problems could pop up, but there are day-passes available which allow unlimited rides on all the modes of transports in Hakone under the Odakyu company. We were thankfully lucky enough to see Mount Fuji the day we visited because it is said that the mountain is usually clouded with fog and mist too thick to see through.

lavlilacs Japan Tokyo Ueno Park group dancing lavlilacs Japan Tokyo Ueno Park shrine chozuya water purifying area

lavlilacs Japan Tokyo Meiji Shrine wedding

No matter how much one can plan to do, there are always certain things that cannot be predetermined. Sometimes the most interesting things are completely unexpected. Ueno Park and Meiji Shrine are huge tourist attractions. It is easy to forget that they're still both places that Japanese people do still go to as well. We saw many families and elderly there just strolling and chit chatting. We heard upbeat music playing and found a group of people dressed in yukatas dancing to the beat in a large circle. We walked past a gate at the shrine and found people being ushered to the sides to clear space for a traditional wedding procession. These were all things that we just chanced upon and not experiences that money could have bought us, natural interactions between the locals.

lavlilacs Japan Tokyo Asakusa Sensoji koi pond

lavlilacs Japan Tokyo Imperial Palace

Of the days that I painstakingly planned out, a majority of it didn't go 100% as expected. We didn't always go to every single place on the list. There were days when we changed the itinerary out of the blue. It was also hard to predict the weather a week ahead while I was in the planning stages so there were rainy day options in case the mother nature caught us by surprise. Certain days' plans were more flexible than others. Other occasions, it was pure indecisiveness which led to somewhat spontaneous decisions.

lavlilacs Japan Hakone Pax Yoshino Hotel set dinner

lavlilacs Japan Tokyo Asakusa Tatsumi-ya wagyu sukiyaki

lavlilacs Japan Tokyo Tsukishima monjayaki

Like how there were a few places I had to visit, there were a few very specific things I had to eat. The first was ramen at Chuka Soba Inoue at Tsukiji Outer markets. Another was chankonabe at Chanko Tomoegata. I also wanted to have set course meal at an onsen hotel. Yet another was sukiyaki. The last was monjayaki. Unlike the ramen and chankonabe spots, where I had precise places I wanted to try, the other three were just foods that I wanted to eat with no particular place in mind.

I chose to eat those foods wherever convenient rather than planning sights around specific food places. I was able to get a taste of the course meal at our hotel in Hakone. My Aunt spotted a sukiyaki/shabu shabu places during one of our visits to Asakusa. I guess the exception might have been the monjayaki since we did make a trip to Tsukishima just to visit the monjayaki street. Once we were there, any restaurant would have satisfied my curiosity.

lavlilacs Japan Tokyo Ropponggi Hills Marche roasted sweet potato inside

lavlilacs Japan Tokyo Asakusa Sensoji Hashimaki lavlilacs Japan Tokyo Asakusa Nakamise ume agemanju inside

lavlilacs Japan Tokyo Ueno Ameyayokocho seafood stand crab meat

Believe me when I say I travel to eat. Besides having the listed things that I absolutely had to try, we also ate a ton along the way that I didn't particularly plan to have. These were usually small bites and street foods. Japanese roasted sweet potato was something I didn't have on my radar at all. But once my Aunt suggested we get, I immediately regretted not buying more of. The flesh was so powdery soft! Unlike the mushy stringy version we have in NYC. I knew Nakamise and Shin-Nakamise in Asakusa had tons of food stalls. We saw croissant and regular taiyaki, katsus, and anything else you can imagine for street food in Japan. But I was most excited at the unexpected finds whilst there. My favorites were the hashiyaki (okonomiyaki on chopsticks) and agemanju (tempera style fried steamed red bean buns). Of the remaining food areas I had on my list, my top picks for small serving seafood were Tsukiji Outer markets and Ameyayokocho Market in Ueno. I especially loved eating grilled scallops and any kind of crab meat. At the time I was still not a very big raw fish eater. But it is definitely a must try for anyone who is.

Japan might look small on a map. Yet there is so much to see. My list was unrealistically long for the trip length we had. But the point was to have options. Especially since it isn't just me but both my Aunt and I. There were things I wanted to see that she did not, Tokyo Tower and Skytree. There were things I wanted to eat but she didn't, anything fried or raw or too alcoholic. We definitely did not get to hit every spot I had in mind. Somehow we managed to keep our sanity without getting lost in a foreign place. That's already a pretty big feat in itself, considering neither of us traveled to somewhere 100% unfamiliar without local help before.