Perhaps I am one of the last few Asian/Korean beauty enthusiasts to try Etude House's Sunprise Mild Airy Finish SPF50+ PA+++? Reviews on sites such as Amazon and YesStyle have hundreds if not thousands of positive opinions for it. All of which gives hope for a pleasant feeling "physical" sunscreen when so many products on the market dampen that dream. As for me, this deserves the label of being my most favorite inorganic sunscreen I have tried in recent memory.
Etude House's description:
A non-sticky & no turbidy UV milk that provides long-lasting UV protection with 100% mineral based mild ingredients for sensitive skin.
1. No turbidy: Anti-greasy & sticky for smooth application while protecting UV without turbidy.
2. 100% Mineral Filter: Softly applied on sensitive skin
3. Vegetability: Made of dwarf ground sedge extract, aloe vera, portulaca oleracea extract to protect skin from UV safely.
Containing 20 kinds of vegetable ingredients to protect skin from UV perfectly.
- Dwarf ground sedge extract & Sunflower seeds for UV protection
- Acai berry & Acerola to reinforce vitality of skin
- Portulaca oleracea, Centella asiatica, & Mistletoe leaves to relax skin
- Aloe vera, Cactus, & Hyaluronic acid to hydrate skin
Directions
After skin care, apply to sun exposed areas of the face/body and massage for skin to absorb into skin.
Often layer several times in case of exposing skin to UV occasionally.
Ingredients
WATER, CYCLOPENTASILOXANE, ZINC OXIDE, ALCOHOL, DICAPRYLYL ETHER, DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, ALOE BARBADENSIS LEAF JUICE, VISCUM ALBUM (MISTLETOE) LEAF EXTRACT, PORTULACA OLERACEA EXTRACT, CENTELLA ASIATICA EXTRACT, OPUNTIA FICUS-INDICA EXTRACT, CAREX HUMILLIS ROOT EXTRACT, CITRUS AURANTIUM BERGAMIA (BERGAMOT) FRUIT OIL, CITRUS LIMON (LEMON) PEEL OIL, EUCALYPTUS GLOBULUS LEAF OIL, PINUS SYLVESTRIS LEAF OIL, CITRUS AURANTIFOLIA (LIME) OIL, CITRUS AURANTIUM DULCIS (ORANGE) PEEL OIL, EUTERPE OLERACEA FRUIT EXTRACT, MALPIGHIA EMARGINATA (ACEROLA) FRUIT EXTRACT, TERMINALIA FERDINANDIANA FRUIT EXTRACT, ECHIUM PLANTAGINEUM SEED OIL, ADANSONIA DIGITATA SEED OIL, HYALURONIC ACID, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL, CARDIOSPERMUM HALICACABUM FLOWER/LEAF/VINE EXTRACT, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL UNSAPONIFIABLES, VINYL DIMETHICONE/METHICONE SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER, PEG-10 DIMETHICONE, CYCLOMETHICONE, MAGNESIUM SULFATE, POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANE, METHICONE, 1,2-HEXANEDIOL, ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE, METHYL METHACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, OCTYLDODECANOL, DIMETHICONE, STEARIC ACID, GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE, POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYRICINOLEATE, DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, MICROCRYSTALLINE CELLULOSE, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, TRIETHOXYCAPRYLYLSILANE, CELLULOSE GUM
Sunscreen 55 ml / 1.85 fl oz
Etude House (Korean retail): ₩11,000
Etude House (US retail): USD $13.20
oo35mm: USD $16.99
OHLOLLY: USD $14.50
YesStyle: USD $11.90
RoseRoseShop: USD $9.74
Packaging
A lightweight plastic bottle with a screw on cap and pointed dispenser tip. The product squeezes out easily and I think there wouldn't be a problem getting through every last drop. The bottle of sunscreen I bought came sealed in a shrink-wrapped plastic layer with an ingredient label stuck on the outside; I am not sure if this is how it is sold in Korea but I appreciate that it has minimal stuff.
Color, Texture, Finish, & Scent
The sunscreen is true to its ingredients, Titanium Dioxide & Zinc oxide, in the sense that it is very white in color. Thankfully it doesn't come with the dreaded thick and pasty texture typically associated with those two filters. The Sunprise Mild Airy Finish is runny and fluid. It spreads out well without any tugging required. It has a smooth satin finish when blended and a powdery matte, but not drying, finish once the sunscreen completely sets into the skin. It is not tacky and doesn't have much transfer when touched. There is a light citrus scent that disappears quickly.
How I Apply
To be clear, I am not advertising this as the "correct" amount to apply for sufficient SPF 50 protection.
Squeeze a line of sunscreen onto my index finger. Lightly dap the product to spread it evenly across one cheek. Once it looks to be a thin, uniform layer I use light swipes and strokes to blend the product in well until I see no white streaks. Repeat steps for the other cheek, then forehead, and lastly neck.
Note: I apply in sections rather than smoothing everything at once all over my face to not give the sunscreen a chance to set before it is fully blended in.
Thoughts & Recommendations
Mild may be in the name but for those who avoid or are sensitive to silicones, alcohol, and/or essential oils may want to tread with caution. I haven't noticed any negative skin reactions to this particular product myself but it is worth noting for someone else.
One of the most important attributes I look for in a sunscreen is whether it stings or irritates my eyes after application and/or throughout the day with wear. Even with alcohol being the 4th ingredient on the list, my skin and especially my eyes are not bothered at all with the Sunprise Mild Airy Finish sunscreen. It doesn't even have a noticeable alcohol scent. Both were, honestly, my biggest fears before even purchasing a bottle. That being said I apply the product up to my undereye area and try to avoid the eyelid space entirely just to be extra cautious.
As long as my eyes are undisturbed, things like a white cast are bearable up to a certain point. I don't want to look like pasty and ghostly yet a slight tone up isn't overly embarrassing for me. Luckily with this sunscreen, neither are an issue since the sunscreen leaves the teeniest white cast on my skin tone. It doesn't even look like much after applying makeup over top. However! This only applies if I smooth the sunscreen in well. If I leave it to set with any white streaks unblended, it will dry and leave white patches and streaks because I assume the alcohol is evaporating and just leave the filters to sit as they are.
I think what really sets this Etude House sunscreen apart from any other inorganic, "physical" sunscreen I have tried is the texture and finish. It is rare to find something so liquid, lightweight, and non-drying yet matte in that category of UV protection. While I wouldn't consider this to be a moisturizing sunscreen, it doesn't dry my skin out either. It does have a tendency to cling onto dry patches and lines though. It also gets a little drier throughout the day in said areas. On the other hand, in places I am oilier, my face doesn't look overly oily either. The best balance, I guess, is to just ensure I am well moisturized and exfoliated to reap the best effects with the sunscreen.
The best consequential attribute of inorganic sunscreens is their ability to be pretty water resistant. For me, this means it lasts well through day-to-day wear and holds my makeup well. One would ideally reapply but I take that as a sign my sunscreen is still somewhat intact. The Sunprise Mild Airy Finish seems to last well through sweat and water as I still need a good cleanser (whether it be balm, oil, gel, foam, etc.) to remove the sunscreen.
Even if I do buy other sunscreens to try for my face, I can see myself repurchasing this particular Etude House sunscreen just to use on my neck, chest, and body. It feels almost as if I haven't applied anything yet providing full UVA and UVB protection. I would recommend this for most skin types. The only exceptions would be those who have sensitivities to the mentioned ingredients and those who have very stubborn dry patches and skin texture issues.
Would anyone believe me if I said the COSRX Shield Fit ALL Green Comfort Sun SPF50+ PA++++ is the first full-sized COSRX product I have ever tried? The brand has a loyal following and all their products are raved about at one point or another. So when they come out with sun protection, especially a "mineral" and "inorganic" one, I go in having higher hopes and expectations than normal.
COSRX's description:
Formulated with all green ingredients, this sunscreen that protects the skin from external stressors leaving the skin with a soft matte finish.
EWG all green grade formula comforts the skin while providing perfect protection from both UVA and UVB. This complete skin shield applies effortlessly to protect the skin from overexposure to sunlight and pollution.
This comforting sunscreen relieves irritation while calming redness with a unique 'Mild Comfort System' formulated with Centella Asiatica Extract and Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract. It helps sensitive skin look and feel more comfortable.
Artemisia Caillaris Extract protects the skin from fine dust and other external stressors.
The weightless cream texture helps control sebum production to smoothen the skin without clogging the pores. It leaves the skin with a soft matte finish with no greasy residue.
Directions
Apply a generous amount on over face 30 minutes before sun exposure.
Reapply throughout the day as needed, especially during prolonged sun exposure.
Ingredients
WATER, CYCLOMETHICONE, ZINC OXIDE (CI 77947), BUTYLOCTYL SALICYLATE, POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYDIMETHYLSILOXYETHYL DIMETHICONE, ISODODECANE, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), BUTYLENE GLYCOL, CAPRYLYL METHICONE, GLYCERIN, ISONONYL ISONONANOATE, POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANE, 1,2-HEXANEDIOL, TRIBEHENIN, DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE, SORBITAN SESQUIOLEATE, MICA (CI 77019), MAGNESIUM SULFATE, TRIETHOXYCAPRYLYLSILANE, ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE, STEARIC ACID, SALVIA SCLAREA (CLARY) OIL, PROPYLENE CARBONATE, CENTELLA ASIATICA EXTRACT, CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA (MATRICARIA) FLOWER EXTRACT, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE, TRIHYDROXYSTEARIN, DISODIUM EDTA, DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL, MALTODEXTRIN, MORINGA PTERYGOSPERMA SEED EXTRACT, SODIUM PALMITOYL PROLINE, SNAIL SECRETION FILTRATE, ARTEMISIA CAPILLARIS EXTRACT, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, NYMPHAEA ALBA FLOWER EXTRACT, OCTANEDIOL, PINUS PINASTER BARK EXTRACT
Sunscreen 35 ml / 1.18 fl oz
COSRX (Korean retail): ₩15,000
oo35mm: USD $17.99
YesStyle: USD $16.90
Style Korea: USD $16.50
Packaging
An opaque squeeze tube with a pointed nozzle tip. It is slightly see-through when held up against a bright light. My new tube of sunscreen did not come with an inner seal, but that seems rare for tubes with the pointier dispensers. The expiration date is stamped into the top crimp for an easy reminder. I appreciate that COSRX includes full Korean and English information on their box packaging, at the very least, yet it isn't a complete surprise since they do cater to a huge international fan base.
Color, Texture, Finish, & Scent
When first squeezed out of the tube, the sunscreen looks like a very lightweight lotion. It has the spreadability of lotion as well and doesn't feel like the typical pastes that are of typical Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide products. However, the sunscreen starts to show the less desirable attributes when used in larger amounts or in multiple layers (i.e. slight tug, takes some time to fully work in, leave a white cast).
Shield Fit All Green is true on its words and does leave a soft matte finish. This looks great on skin that is free of dry patches and textural issues (scabbing acne, blackheads, whiteheads, etc.) because the sunscreen will catch onto everything and look cakey. It has a very strong Hong Kong style milk tea scent to it that lingers for a while.
How I Apply
To be clear, I am not advertising this as the "correct" amount to apply for sufficient SPF 50 protection.
Squeeze a line of sunscreen onto my index, middle, and ring fingers. Use my other hand and warm up/spread the product only between the fingers to create an even layer. Pat across my face and neck until it is well distributed. Lightly swipe to help it blend it and rid any streaks.
Squeeze a line of sunscreen onto my index finger. Directly pat and rub it onto my left cheek until well blended. Repeat for my right cheek. Repeat for the forehead. Repeat for the neck and chest.
Thoughts & Recommendations
One reason why I did not mind using this sunscreen in my routine is due to the milk tea scent. I don't know about anyone else but it smells great to me. Even my friends who gave it a whiff agree! It stays for a while yet isn't overpowering or too artificial. It also completely masks the stereotypically bad sunscreen odor.
The biggest reasons why I continue to reach for the product often is because it offers high UVA and UVB protection, doesn't budge on my skin, and thus does not find its way to my eyes (no stinging or teary eyes). Of course, I have to consider reapplication if I sweat a lot or get my skin wet. Otherwise, my face stays matte a longer portion of the day and the color makeup on my face doesn't fade as quickly.
Even though COSRX says this sunscreen does not leave a white cast, I would beg to differ. That is also the main reason why I don't enjoy using it a full 100%. There is, of course, no white cast if I apply a light layer (one finger lengths worth for my entire face and neck). Once that second line of UV filtration is introduced the white cast makes an appearance. It isn't the easiest product to layer up either because it dries very matte and will start to look cakey on drier/flaky/not-well-moisturized skin. To be fair, though this doesn't have the worst white cast in comparison to a lot of other Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide based items.
The biggest gripe everyone seems to have, including me, is the fact that a tube of sunscreen is only 35 ml. At close to USD $16-18 per tube, the Shield Fit All Green Comfort Sun is very pricey. It is a great size for tossing into a makeup pouch and is very travel-friendly but I don't think it is reapplication friendly so being able to easily carry it around is not a helpful point. If the proper amount is used every application, one tube will not last long. I almost did not want to like it at all purely because it would be expensive to keep repurchasing.
On the grand scheme of things, COSRX's take on a "mineral" sunscreen is not terrible. It definitely isn't the worst. The texture is lightweight and spreadable. The scent is pleasant. But for a brand that seems to do no wrong in the skincare world, Shield Fit All Green didn't hit all the marks for me for my most ideal sunscreen. Maybe my skin isn't oily or well-exfoliated enough to fully enjoy its matte texture? Maybe I am over applying sunscreen and not knowing it so there is such a bad white cast? Maybe my expectations were set a little too high?
I personally wouldn't repurchase it based on quantity and price alone. Those two attributes aside, the Shield Fit All Green would work well for those who don't mind a slight white cast, wear colored makeup overtop often, or just tend to apply smaller amounts of sunscreen. People who have oilier skin and like a matte look would also like this more.
The journey to find a pleasant "physical" based, inorganic, sunscreen is an ongoing struggle. Even though all brands who use only Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide in their sun protection products say it will leave no white cast, the reality is usually far from true. A'PIEU's Madecassoside Sun Cream SPF 39 PA++ has surprised me in many ways during its run in my routine. Of the SPF I have tried so far, it is a rare one that gets closer to what I wish an inorganic sunscreen could be.
A'PIEU's description:
Anti-wrinkle & brightening, multi-functional cosmetic, skin sensitivity test completed. Madecassosside sun cream soothes and repairs skin as well as protect it from UV rays.
Madecassosside: repairs skin, calms sensitivity, strengthens skin, brightens skin, anti-wrinkle
It is a component of Centella extract, known for its soothing and repairing properties. Even sensitive skin types can use it without concerns, absolutely chemical free, pure cream.
This cream contains an extra 40% of Centella extract additional to the Madecassosside. Light cream applies on softly, leaving no white residue and absorbing quickly.
Directions
At the last step of your skincare routine, apply the needed amount onto face and gently pat to aid absorption.
Apply onto the neck, arms, and legs, or any areas that are more frequently exposed to the sun. Continuously apply if sun exposure prolongs.
Apply multiple thin layers to create a more effective and stronger barrier against the sun.
Ingredients
CENTELLA ASIATICA LEAF WATER, CYCLOPENTASILOXANE, DIBUTYL ADIPATE, WATER(AQUA), DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL, CYCLOHEXASILOXANE, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, ZINC OXIDE, PHENYL TRIMETHICONE, PEG-10 DIMETHICONE, HYDROGENATED POLY(C6-14 OLEFIN), NIACINAMIDE, ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE, SODIUM CHLORIDE, STEARIC ACID, DIMETHICONE, DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE, BEESWAX(CERA ALBA), CETYL PEG/PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE, DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE, CHLORPHENESIN, TRIETHOXYCAPRYLYLSILANE, OENOTHERA BIENNIS (EVENING PRIMROSE) FLOWER EXTRACT, CITRUS GRANDIS (GRAPEFRUIT) PEEL OIL, MADECASSOSIDE, DISODIUM EDTA, ADENOSINE, CITRUS LIMON (LEMON) PEEL OIL, GLYCERIN, ASIATICOSIDE, LAVANDULA HYBRIDA OIL, PELARGONIUM GRAVEOLENS FLOWER OIL, CITRUS NOBILIS (MANDARIN ORANGE) PEEL OIL, JUNIPERUS MEXICANA OIL, SODIUM HYALURONATE, 1,2-HEXANEDIOL
Sunscreen 40 g
A'PIEU (Korean retail): ₩9,000
Missha: USD $15.00
oo35mm: USD $14.99
BeautyBoxKorea: USD $9.53
RoseRoseShop: USD $7.89
Packaging
A flexible, opaque tube with a twist-off cap and pointed nozzle tip. There is no inner seal and the box that came with the sunscreen did not have a security seal/sticker either. This can be concerning but I think it is somewhat easy to tell if the product has been tampered with since a new tube feels filled to the brim with sunscreen.
Color, Texture, Finish, & Scent
Sun "cream" may not be the best descriptor. While the product that comes out of the tube looking like a traditional white UV filter, the textural similarity end there once it is blended in. This sunscreen is very lightweight and has a consistency closer to a lotion. It spreads easily but does get some streaky strokes until the product is fully smoothed into the skin (as what body lotions typically do). I won't say there is absolutely no white cast, especially when used in larger amounts and in a concentrated area, but of all the "mineral" sunscreens I have tried so far the white cast for this is very very minimal.
Unlike other Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide based products, this doesn't leave a dry matte finish; perhaps the best term would be satin matte, a.k.a. matte with a tiny bit of sheen. If I run my hands over wherever it is placed, I get no transfer but I do feel that something is there. Water seems to repel off the skin after application but I wouldn't say it is super waterproof. There is a tendency to catch onto dry patches and textural bumps. It has a strong citrus scent, almost household cleanser-like, straight out of the tube and while blending; luckily that smell is almost unnoticeable once it dissipates.
How I Apply
To be clear, I am not advertising this as the "correct" amount to apply for sufficient SPF 50 protection.
Squeeze a line directly from the tube onto my forehead, a line across each cheek, two lines for my neck and one for my chest. Use only a finger or two to pat and even distribute the lines in their respective areas. Then lightly swipe and rub the product into my skin.
Squeeze 4 lines of product from the tube onto my forefinger, middle, ring, and pinky fingers. Use the other hand to lightly rub the product against the corresponding fingers to create an even layer. Pat across my face and lightly swipe/rub until blended. Repeat with 2-3 more lines of product for neck and chest.
Thoughts & Recommendations
The difference between the protection percentage of SPF 30 and SPF 50 may only be 1% (97% versus 98%) but a huge factor in whether our skin gets the said coverage depends on how well we apply sunscreen. Anything above SPF 50 is even more marginal of a difference. This is the main reason why I choose products with SPF 50, to compensate for when I don't apply enough sunscreen so that extra percentage will be of some help.
I made an exception when I decided to buy the Madecassoside Sun Cream. Had it not swatched so well on my hand in the store, I honestly wouldn't have given it a second glance looking online only. My logic was if it could apply with such minimal white cast in larger amounts on the face I wouldn't hesitate to put the correct amount of sunscreen on for the full 97% protection.
Thankfully, my choice was not for naught. I could apply a full four fingers' lengths worth and my face doesn't turn a stark white or pink tone. It isn't overly drying and mattifying which is a huge welcome to my now less oily skin. While it isn't the most waterproof/water resistant sunscreen I have tried, it isn't too shabby either. The sunscreen stays in place all day, even against sun, wind, rain, oil, and tears, without disturbing my makeup or irritating my eyes. I have yet to experience any skin tans or burns in the areas I have applied it.
A'PIEU's claims for anti-wrinkle and brightening may be a stretch. But who am I to say when I have only used this for a couple of months at most. If anything the anti-wrinkle and brightening effect comes as a benefit of just wearing the sunscreen more in general than because of madecassoside's antioxidant properties. I can say this Sun Cream did not feel heavy nor clogged my pores to cause further acne. Whether it helps with long-term skin repair is hard to say with just one tube.
My biggest gripe with the sunscreen lies with the unpleasant smell straight out of the tube. I think it smells like ammoniated citrus bathroom cleanser. If the scent lingered for any longer than it does now I would definitely have abandoned the tube long ago. The second negative is the sizing. 40g is much smaller than normal (sunscreens tend to be at least 50 g or 50 ml). Given the price US retailers sell it for, which is closer to USD $15 than the less than USD $9 at Korean retail, it calculates to be quite pricey. A third con would be the low PA rating despite it having both Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide. Both in conjunction are known to provide good protection against both UVA and UVB yet the SPF and PA of the Sun Cream are much lower than expected. This only leads me to question how much of the sun protectors are actually in it.
Madecassoside Sun Cream isn't the perfect, end all be all, "physical" sunscreen. People talk a lot about cosmetic elegance now and I think it is a great way to describe this texture. It is a product I like to apply because it spreads and blends well without irritating my eyes. The least cosmetically elegant thing about it would just be the scent yet that is a personal preference kind of thing. I would recommend this for those who want something fuss-free in the mornings and isn't too picky about the numbers on the packaging. All skin types should like it but those with very dry and/or flaky skin may want to exfoliate well before use to get optimal results. People with sensitive skin should be careful since there are a few essential oils in its formulation.
