In the new world of what makes a cleanser acceptable, Rose by dr. dream's Mild Natured Powder Cleanser seems to be a good compromise between the past and the present trends. The brand is supposedly created by a large plastic surgery clinic brand in South Korea who promises the product to be gentle, pH-balanced to best suit the human skin, and without any harsh additives or unnecessary fillers. I think I have finally gathered my thoughts for this cleanser after months of on and off use.
dr. dream's description:
Soft bubbles (rose fragrances), Moist, Sensitive.
Hypo-allergenic powder cleanser that cleans dead skin cells, waste, and sebum in pores.
Hypo-allergenic powder cleanser forms soft bubbles during cleansing, which does not contain any artificial coloring, preservatives, and sulfate. Enzymes like papain and corn starch gently remove dead skin cells and waste in pores for deep cleaning. Rose stem cell and trehalose help skin to be moist and clear after cleansing.
Directions
Clean hand, take appropriate amount and lather soft bubbles, gently massage in circular motions, and rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water.
Ingredients
ZEA MAYS (CORN) STARCH, SODIUM LAUROYL SARCOSINATE, NIACINAMIDE, ROSA HYBRID CALLUS CULTURE EXTRACT(1PPM), PAPAIN, BROMELAIN, ALLANTOIN,TREHALOSE, DIPOTASSIUM GLYCYRRHIZATE, PARFUME
Cleanser 70 g
Dr. Dream (Korean retail): ₩38,000
Peach & Lily: USD $38.00
Packaging
Opaque bottle with a flip top cap and a small opening to dispense the powder cleanser out via shaking. I would have preferred if it was a little translucent if not transparent since it would allow me to actually see how much product is left. Otherwise, the actual method of dispensing isn't an issue for me.
Color, Texture, Finish, & Scent
The powder is white and seemingly soft out of the bottle. It has a strong rose scent that lingers for as long as the cleanser is on the face. Most of the powder acts and spreads like corn starch would on dry hands by leaving a velvety finish. A small portion of the powder is made up of more granular hard bits that don't break down even with the addition of water. I find the cleanser only likes the teeniest amount of water to give a slight lather or else it is immediately washed away rather than dissolving into any form of cleansing solution. A foaming net or cup does create foam but it isn't very dense and dissipates quickly.
When lathering and cleansing with only my hands, this cleanser leaves a very smooth and squeaky clean feeling on both my hands and face. I also immediately start to feel tightness if I don't moisturize soon after. When foaming with a contraption, the cleanser still leaves a squeaky clean feeling but my face doesn't feel as tight nor smooth.
How I Apply
Exfoliating + Cleansing // Wet my hands. Shake the bottle about 10 times onto one palm. Use the other wet palm (but not dripping wet) to rub against the cleanser and create a soft lather. Proceed to gently rub my face and rinse the product off.
Cleansing // Put a tiny amount of water into a foaming cup. Shake the bottle about 10 times to get the powder cleanser into the cup. Pump to create a light and fluffy foam. Scoop out the foam, gently rub my face, and rinse.
Thoughts & Recommendations
Like many Peach & Lily sample sale items, I purchased this cleanser completely blind. No researching and no review read ups made beforehand. Heck, I didn't even look up the ingredients or how-tos after opening the product up and started to use it. This I think is a part of the reason why I did not like the product for a very long time.
Without any pre-conceived notions placed in my head and based purely on how I thought the cleanser should be used, I flat out did not like how the cleanser made me feel. My hands and face felt a little too squeeky clean. It did not help that the powder cleanser did not give me much lather whilst feeling kind of gritty and not fully dissolvable. The longer I waited between the cleanser and toning step, the tighter my face started to feel.
I kept at that style of cleansing for a while until I remembered I had a foaming cup. It solved the biggest issues I had which was the lack of foam and hard bits. It lessened the squeeky clean finish too. But the foam wasn't very dense no matter how much more or less powder cleanser I added. The foam would disappear before I felt like I gave my face a good rubbing.
After some researching, I realized the Mild Natured Powder Cleanser is probably closer to a exfoliating cleanser with the included papain and bromelain (both enzymes found in papaya and pineapple respectively that has uses in skincare for exfoliation related purposes). Perhaps the squeeky clean feeling I felt wasn't just because the cleanser was too strong or heavy in surfectants like I had thought. Maybe it was just my face being relieved of some of the old skin and pore gunk?
I use the cleanser much differently now that I am armored with the new information. Rather than constantly giving myself daily exfolation (when I don't use the foaming cup), I use it every other day or every two days in place of a chemical exfoliant. Since I don't like the foam it gives, even when forced, I have just abandoned using it purely as a cleanser.
My skin does still feel squeeky clean but I have started to see that my face is also smoother when using than not. Also, since I am not essentially scrubbing my face daily it doesn't feel as sensitive as when I was in the hating phase with this product. The only thing I can do to help with the tightness I get after using the cleanser is to moisturize well.
I wouldn't recommend this for people looking for a gentle cleanser as the brand suggests. Those who want an exfoliator that isn't an AHA or BHA may find this intriguing as it is less harsh and irritating. People with drier skin may not enjoy the squeekiness and tightness though. As for whether I would repurchase, I am still deciding that myself to be completely honest. It is nice now that I have discovered the perfect use for it but there are so many other exfoliators I would like to try too.
The logical side of me wants to say it was a coincidence and give it an excuse. Glow Recipe suddenly announced they were clearing everything that wasn't their own creation. Krave Beauty surprisingly has a pop-up in NYC and items sold-out online were available in-store. My sunscreen stash was close to depleted. I finally spotted Flowfushi's Moteliner that many on Youtuber rave about on an unplanned beauty store visit at St. Mark's.
If I am honest with myself, this monstrosity of a haul is 100% retail therapy. The months of April and May were some of the hardest times for me emotionally and everything, including taking care of myself, were barely things I had the spare care for. As the days passed and I needed to adapt to a new sense of normalcy, I turned to the things that brought small joys in my life to give me an excuse to mentally escape...even if that means I may have overindulged. Timing of the what companies were going through just fueled me a teeny bit.
Glow Recipe's Glow All Out Sale:
J.ONE Black Jelly Pack
make p:rem Radiance Me. Cleansing Water Oil
RoseRoseShop:
Clio Waterproof Pen Liner Kill Brown - Gray Brown
Clio Waterproof Pen Liner Kill Black
Etude House Proof 10 Gel Pencil Liner - Dark Cacao
Missha Ultra Powerproof Pencil Liner - Black
BANILA CO. Clean It Zero Cleansing Balm - Nourishing
Healing Bird Scalp Clear Cleansing pack
A'PIEU Madecassoside Ampoule
COSRX Propolis Light Ampule
Laneige Cream Skin Refiner
Laneige Anti Pollution Two Tone Sun Stick SPF 50+ PA++++
A'PIEU Cicative Zinc Sun Cream SPF 50+ PA+++
Purito Centella Green Level Safe Sun SPF 50+ PA++++
Dr. Jart Every Sun Day Mild Sun (Enjoy Edition) + Dr. Jart Dermaclear Micro pH Foam
Goodal Mild Protect Natural Filter Sun Fluid SPF 50+ PA++++
Dermatory Hypoallergenic Sun Fluid SPF 50+ PA++++
Shibuyala:
FLOWFUSHI Moteliner - Navy Black
Krave Beauty's Naked Nolita Pop-up:
Krave Beauty Matcha Hemp Hydrating Cleanser
Krave Beauty Kale-lalu-yAHA + mini freebie
Krave Beauty Great Barrier Relief
Krave Beauty The Beet Shield
Press Reset pin
Perhaps I am one of the last few Asian/Korean beauty enthusiasts to try Etude House's Sunprise Mild Airy Finish SPF50+ PA+++? Reviews on sites such as Amazon and YesStyle have hundreds if not thousands of positive opinions for it. All of which gives hope for a pleasant feeling "physical" sunscreen when so many products on the market dampen that dream. As for me, this deserves the label of being my most favorite inorganic sunscreen I have tried in recent memory.
Etude House's description:
A non-sticky & no turbidy UV milk that provides long-lasting UV protection with 100% mineral based mild ingredients for sensitive skin.
1. No turbidy: Anti-greasy & sticky for smooth application while protecting UV without turbidy.
2. 100% Mineral Filter: Softly applied on sensitive skin
3. Vegetability: Made of dwarf ground sedge extract, aloe vera, portulaca oleracea extract to protect skin from UV safely.
Containing 20 kinds of vegetable ingredients to protect skin from UV perfectly.
- Dwarf ground sedge extract & Sunflower seeds for UV protection
- Acai berry & Acerola to reinforce vitality of skin
- Portulaca oleracea, Centella asiatica, & Mistletoe leaves to relax skin
- Aloe vera, Cactus, & Hyaluronic acid to hydrate skin
Directions
After skin care, apply to sun exposed areas of the face/body and massage for skin to absorb into skin.
Often layer several times in case of exposing skin to UV occasionally.
Ingredients
WATER, CYCLOPENTASILOXANE, ZINC OXIDE, ALCOHOL, DICAPRYLYL ETHER, DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, ALOE BARBADENSIS LEAF JUICE, VISCUM ALBUM (MISTLETOE) LEAF EXTRACT, PORTULACA OLERACEA EXTRACT, CENTELLA ASIATICA EXTRACT, OPUNTIA FICUS-INDICA EXTRACT, CAREX HUMILLIS ROOT EXTRACT, CITRUS AURANTIUM BERGAMIA (BERGAMOT) FRUIT OIL, CITRUS LIMON (LEMON) PEEL OIL, EUCALYPTUS GLOBULUS LEAF OIL, PINUS SYLVESTRIS LEAF OIL, CITRUS AURANTIFOLIA (LIME) OIL, CITRUS AURANTIUM DULCIS (ORANGE) PEEL OIL, EUTERPE OLERACEA FRUIT EXTRACT, MALPIGHIA EMARGINATA (ACEROLA) FRUIT EXTRACT, TERMINALIA FERDINANDIANA FRUIT EXTRACT, ECHIUM PLANTAGINEUM SEED OIL, ADANSONIA DIGITATA SEED OIL, HYALURONIC ACID, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL, CARDIOSPERMUM HALICACABUM FLOWER/LEAF/VINE EXTRACT, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL UNSAPONIFIABLES, VINYL DIMETHICONE/METHICONE SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER, PEG-10 DIMETHICONE, CYCLOMETHICONE, MAGNESIUM SULFATE, POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANE, METHICONE, 1,2-HEXANEDIOL, ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE, METHYL METHACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, OCTYLDODECANOL, DIMETHICONE, STEARIC ACID, GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE, POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYRICINOLEATE, DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, MICROCRYSTALLINE CELLULOSE, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, TRIETHOXYCAPRYLYLSILANE, CELLULOSE GUM
Sunscreen 55 ml / 1.85 fl oz
Etude House (Korean retail): ₩11,000
Etude House (US retail): USD $13.20
oo35mm: USD $16.99
OHLOLLY: USD $14.50
YesStyle: USD $11.90
RoseRoseShop: USD $9.74
Packaging
A lightweight plastic bottle with a screw on cap and pointed dispenser tip. The product squeezes out easily and I think there wouldn't be a problem getting through every last drop. The bottle of sunscreen I bought came sealed in a shrink-wrapped plastic layer with an ingredient label stuck on the outside; I am not sure if this is how it is sold in Korea but I appreciate that it has minimal stuff.
Color, Texture, Finish, & Scent
The sunscreen is true to its ingredients, Titanium Dioxide & Zinc oxide, in the sense that it is very white in color. Thankfully it doesn't come with the dreaded thick and pasty texture typically associated with those two filters. The Sunprise Mild Airy Finish is runny and fluid. It spreads out well without any tugging required. It has a smooth satin finish when blended and a powdery matte, but not drying, finish once the sunscreen completely sets into the skin. It is not tacky and doesn't have much transfer when touched. There is a light citrus scent that disappears quickly.
How I Apply
To be clear, I am not advertising this as the "correct" amount to apply for sufficient SPF 50 protection.
Squeeze a line of sunscreen onto my index finger. Lightly dap the product to spread it evenly across one cheek. Once it looks to be a thin, uniform layer I use light swipes and strokes to blend the product in well until I see no white streaks. Repeat steps for the other cheek, then forehead, and lastly neck.
Note: I apply in sections rather than smoothing everything at once all over my face to not give the sunscreen a chance to set before it is fully blended in.
Thoughts & Recommendations
Mild may be in the name but for those who avoid or are sensitive to silicones, alcohol, and/or essential oils may want to tread with caution. I haven't noticed any negative skin reactions to this particular product myself but it is worth noting for someone else.
One of the most important attributes I look for in a sunscreen is whether it stings or irritates my eyes after application and/or throughout the day with wear. Even with alcohol being the 4th ingredient on the list, my skin and especially my eyes are not bothered at all with the Sunprise Mild Airy Finish sunscreen. It doesn't even have a noticeable alcohol scent. Both were, honestly, my biggest fears before even purchasing a bottle. That being said I apply the product up to my undereye area and try to avoid the eyelid space entirely just to be extra cautious.
As long as my eyes are undisturbed, things like a white cast are bearable up to a certain point. I don't want to look like pasty and ghostly yet a slight tone up isn't overly embarrassing for me. Luckily with this sunscreen, neither are an issue since the sunscreen leaves the teeniest white cast on my skin tone. It doesn't even look like much after applying makeup over top. However! This only applies if I smooth the sunscreen in well. If I leave it to set with any white streaks unblended, it will dry and leave white patches and streaks because I assume the alcohol is evaporating and just leave the filters to sit as they are.
I think what really sets this Etude House sunscreen apart from any other inorganic, "physical" sunscreen I have tried is the texture and finish. It is rare to find something so liquid, lightweight, and non-drying yet matte in that category of UV protection. While I wouldn't consider this to be a moisturizing sunscreen, it doesn't dry my skin out either. It does have a tendency to cling onto dry patches and lines though. It also gets a little drier throughout the day in said areas. On the other hand, in places I am oilier, my face doesn't look overly oily either. The best balance, I guess, is to just ensure I am well moisturized and exfoliated to reap the best effects with the sunscreen.
The best consequential attribute of inorganic sunscreens is their ability to be pretty water resistant. For me, this means it lasts well through day-to-day wear and holds my makeup well. One would ideally reapply but I take that as a sign my sunscreen is still somewhat intact. The Sunprise Mild Airy Finish seems to last well through sweat and water as I still need a good cleanser (whether it be balm, oil, gel, foam, etc.) to remove the sunscreen.
Even if I do buy other sunscreens to try for my face, I can see myself repurchasing this particular Etude House sunscreen just to use on my neck, chest, and body. It feels almost as if I haven't applied anything yet providing full UVA and UVB protection. I would recommend this for most skin types. The only exceptions would be those who have sensitivities to the mentioned ingredients and those who have very stubborn dry patches and skin texture issues.
