Banila Co.'s update to the Clean It Zero Cleansing Balm line had me nervous at first. The saying goes: if it isn't broke, don't fix it. Some customers wanted to see all the balms be mineral oil-less yet it was beloved by so many regardless of it having mineral-oil. Heck, they used to have a mineral oil-less version alongside the others so changes didn't seem that necessary in my eyes. Sometimes reformulations don't always end up being better; in this case, however, I think Banila Co. put my worries to rest to say the very least.
Banila Co. 's Descriptions:
Clean it Zero 3-in-1 Cleansing Balm + Nourishing is a hypoallergenic cleanser that transforms from a sherbet-like balm texture into a smooth oil when applied to skin. Developed to remove even waterproof makeup and all of your skin’s impurities in just one step. Zero Balance Technology with Ginseng Berry & Royal Jelly deeply cleanses and gently exfoliates without stripping the skin, leaving it hydrated and moisturized.
ZERO BALANCE TECHNOLOGY – A proprietary blend of actives that effectively cleanses skin deeply without disturbing the skin’s natural moisture balance.
Added Ginseng Berry and Royal Jelly for an intense rush of moisture for supple glowing skin.
Formulated without:
•Parabens
•Sulfates
•Phthalates
•Mineral oil
•Alcohol
•Artificial coloring
Directions
Use spatula included to scoop balm. Gently massage in circular motions onto dry skin using your fingertips. Rinse well with lukewarm water or wipe off with face cloth or tissue. Pat skin dry.
Ingredients (translated from packaging)
ETHYLHEXYL PALMITATE, CETYL ETHYLHEXANOATE, PEG-20 GLYCERYL TRIISOSTEARATE, PEG-10 ISOSTEARATE, SYNTHETIC WAX, CARTHAMUS TINCTORIUS (SAFFLOWER) SEED OIL, PANAX GINSENG BERRY EXTRACT, OENOTHERA BIENNIS (EVENING PRIMROSE) OIL, HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL, SQUALANE, PHENOXYETHANOL, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, TOCOPHERYL ACETATE, FRAGRANCE, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, PANAX GINSENG ROOT EXTRACT, ROYAL JELLY EXTRACT, WATER, 1,2-HEXANEDIOL, BAMBUSA VULGARIS LEAF/STEM EXTRACT, ASPALATHUS LINEARIS EXTRACT, ANGELICA ARCHANGELICA ROOT EXTRACT, MALPIGHIA GLABRA (ACEROLA) FRUIT EXTRACT, ZEA MAYS (CORN) OIL, BETA-CAROTENE, POLYDIETHYLENEGLYCOL ADIPATE/IPDI COPOLYMER, TOCOPHEROL, ACRYLATES/AMMONIUM METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER, ACRYLATES/METHOXY PEG-15 METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER
Balm 100 ml
Banila Co. (Korean retail): ₩22,000
Banila Co. (US retail): USD $24.00
RoseRoseShop: ₩22,000
SOKO GLAM and Peach&Lily: USD $24.00
oo35mm: USD $27.99
Packaging
A sturdy, yet lightweight, plastic tub with a screw-on cap. It isn't see-through but that wouldn't be a problem as you can open the jar to clearly see how much product is left. The included spatula has a nice large round paddle for easier handling and scooping. New balms come with an inner security seal and authentication seal.
Even though on the outside it looks as if the body of the tub is larger than the opening, I appreciate the fact that the inside of the jar is straight up and down. This results in an easier time when scooping without having to dig under the rim of the jar lip. It is bad news for those who dislike excess plastic usage. The packaging would have been better had it incorporated a flip-top cap for even easier one-handed access.
Color, Texture, Finish & Scent
A faint pastel yellow color cleansing balm with a soft, mushy "sorbet" feel. It rubs into the skin easily and smooths into a lightweight consistency. The balm emulsifies and rinses away quickly without requiring a ton of rubbing. It did not leave behind any residue or film nor did it make my skin feel tight. The sweet, floral scent isn't strong or lingering.
The brand currently focuses on essentially providing the same cleanisng balm base with just varying ingredientns that give Original, Revitalizing, Purifying, and Nourishing their "flavors" or "scents".
How I Apply
The amount I use varies greatly depending on how much makeup I wear but I find a scoop of product with the provided spatula is usually enough for an average day's worth of makeup.
I rub the product between the palms of my hands prior to applying it to my face. Then I will lightly massage all around, including over my eyelids and lips. When I feel like I've thoroughly worked it into every corner of my made-up face, I'll wet my hands a little to start emulsifying the balm. After which I generously splash my face until most of the product is washed away.
Thoughts & Recommendations
I cannot say for sure how the ones now fair against the previous generation because I had only tried their mineral oil-less, "Purity", version in the past. But I would say this current formulation works just as well I remembered.
The Clean It Zero balm is easy to spread and massage. It doesn't feel overly suffocating and sticky on my skin. All the makeup is generally removed very well, granted I massage thoroughly. I did not ever break out from using the product nor have irritated eyes if I work it in that area. The main point that still blows my mind is how long I could go prior to moisturizing without feeling tight and parched...even when I use the cleanisng balm alone! Perhaps that is the "nourishing" elements at work?
Even though the renewal is meant to be more sensitive-skin friendly, ingredient-analyzing websites do show that the Clean It Zero Cleansing Balms still have some potentially non-oily/non-fungal acne friendly ingredients. Fragrance is in all the versions too; it is quite high on the ingredients list, despite it being a sensitive-skin trigger for some.
My biggest wish now would just be for Banila Co. to offer a jumbo size (180ml for $27 v. 100 ml for $24) in all versions rather than just the "Original". I tried the "Nourishing" one first and love it yet cannot benefit from the value size and price. I guess I have to give the "Original" version a try now to see how it compares. Otherwise, I would gladly repurchase and continue to use the reformulated Clean It Zero Cleansing Balms.
Even though I have only attended 3 of the 5 Peach & Lily sample sales, August is now a month I look forward to every year purely because of their mega-discounts. I was surprised by the products and pricing last year (as opposed to the year prior) but everything felt very familiar this time around. The location was the same. The layout was identical. Most brands and products offered last year were available this year and at the same prices. The biggest difference was probably in the manpower (in terms of check-out speed and frequent restocking).
I typically go to the sale hoping to get some new products to try. Since I have tried so many of the things they stocked at the sale this year, I found myself repurchased items that I enjoyed using. The biggest unexpected splurge was in the amount of makeup I picked up; Peach & Lily tagged them at $5 each in commemoration of their sample sale's 5th year anniversary. This included liners of many styles, palettes, lipsticks, and more. Plus, 90% of it was JUNGSAEMMOOL which on average retails ~$30+ each.
Peach & Lily's 5th Annual Sample Sale (*Repurchases)
$1 Goodies:
Abib Gummy sheet mask Madeca sticker x3 Orig. $4
$2 Goodies:
Abib facial soap ivory brick Orig. $19
Abib facial soap grey brick Orig. $19
$5 Goodies:
aromatica Orange Blossom Toner Orig. $34
CREMORLAB O2 Couture Hydra Balancing Toner Orig. $29
$10 Goodies:
CREMORLAB O2 Couture Hydra Intensive Cream Orig. $40
*Abib Hydration gel Orig. $42
*Abib Hydration creme Orig. $42
$15 Goodies:
*Olivarrier Emollient Extra Comfort Cream Orig. $36
Eco Your Skin No. 15 Cream Orig. $55
*aromatica Orange Cleansing Sherbet Orig. $35
$20 Goodies:
Abib Hypoderma SP1-2GF SErum Orig. $92
$30 Goodies:
*Femmue Lumiere Vital C Orig. $88
$5 Makeup Grabs:
JUNGSAEMMOOL Refining Multi Eye Drawing - All Black x2 Orig. $23
JUNGSAEMMOOL Refining Multi Eye Drawing - Maple Brown x2 Orig. $23
*JUNGSAEMMOOL Artist Concealer Palette - Blend Orig. $45
JUNGSAEMMOOL Essential Star Zone Brightener - Rose Orig. $29
JUNGSAEMMOOL High Color Lipstick High Matt - Ginger Brown Orig. $29
JUNGSAEMMOOL High Tinted Lip Laquer - Extreme Red Orig. $23
JUNGSAEMMOOL Essential Glow Base - Pink Glow Orig. $32
W.Lab Real Fit Brush Eyeliner - Real Black Orig. ??
Glow Recipe also surprised with their own sample sale earlier in August but for very different reasons than Peach & Lily. The brand was trying to rid their non-brand items to focus on their new business endeavors. Discounts weren't nearly as steep and surprisingly there was a limit per item. As the sale came closer to an end though they tacked on extra discounts for buying quantity (i.e. Buy 4 items 20% off, Buy 6 get 25% off, Buy 8 get 30% off).
To be honest, I wouldn't have gotten most of the things I got had it not been the bonus discount. I was only very interested in the YURIPIBU and leegeehaam ampoules. It was surprising to see the Glow Recipe Avocado mask but later found out they were releasing their newly reformulated Retinol Avocado mask the same day/week so it made sense for them to try to rid old stock.
Glow Recipe's Sample Sale:
YURIPIBU Asiatica Calming Ampoule $25
leegeehaam Glow Vita Propolis Ampoule $18
make p:rem Peel me. Radiance peeling sleeping pack $18
Glow Recipe Avocado Melt Sleeping Mask $23
common labs Ggultamin B, C, and E Real Ampoule Mask $3 each
This summer in general seemed to be the time forpop-ups from the various Korean e-businesses based in NYC. June and July were Krave Beauty and Then I Met You. August was Soko Glam, Glow Recipe, and Peach & Lily. With Soko Glam's residency in Soho being a full month long with abundannt IG story mentions, I couldn't not stop by even once.
I love being able to see some of the stuff they curate in person. There isn't anything like being able to touch and smell the product before deciding to purchase. They even had a sink available for visitors to get the full experience of the makeup removers and cleansers which I think all beauty/skincare shops should offer.
I visited a week too early and missed out on the end-of-pop-up discounts. But perhaps it was for the better because I controlled myself better and only allowed for a small purchase of a cleansing balm to replace my current, almost empty, tub.
Soko Glam's NYC Pop Up Shop:
E NATURE Moringa cleansing balm $23
Squalane has been enjoying a bit of attention lately. I think most of it is due to its similarity to the oils naturally produced by our skin, or so all the brands say. Pair that with the new push for wanting to help oily skin by not stripping but hydrating and just to help the general lack of sebum for dry skin, the market for squalane only seems to grow larger from here on out.
When the only ingredient in a beauty vial are both supposedly the same in name, I start to get curious as what the differences are in the cheaper and expensive options. Olivarrier and Deciem's The Ordinary both claim their versions are plant-based and vegan. Each bottle also come in 30ml sized bottles. Yet one is 4-5x pricier than the other. Would it be 4-5x times better in anyway?
(I do not go into the benefits of Squalane. Please do your own research to determine if it is right for you. This is purely a comparison of what is more worth. For a review on how I like other squalane-incorporated products, click here.)
Olivarrier's Oil description:
Fluid Oil uses 100% plant squalane oils that can only be extracted from the best, healthy olives.
The final product is similar to human sebum, keeping the skin fresh without oily sticky residue. It is a fragrance-free, colorless, non-preservative ingredient that is safe for babies and pregnant women. Can be used for all skin types, including dry, sensitive and trouble-prone skin.
Air pollution, stress, unhealthy foods, and heat all contribute to lipid oxidation that leads to skin aging and dryness.
Healthy skin maintains 20-30% moisture and 70-80% oil, but many times dry skin is only given moisture. Fluid oil maintains the lipid barrier and prevents dryness due to lack of oil your skin needs.
Protects skin from ultraviolet rays and peroxide that cause aging and dryness, and prevents roughness and dryness due to moisture loss. It is a non-comedogenic ingredient, meaning your skin can retain moisture without clogging pores. It prevents the accumulation of thick keratin by keeping the keratin moisturized and helps strengthen the skin barrier.
This clear, small bottle contains effective moisturizers for healthy skin, with safe ingredients that can be used by every member of your family.
We have completely eliminated chemical ingredients, and have credibility through clinical and demanding certifications. Responsible thinking about people and the environment creates clean, green products that are also good for your skin.
Directions
Use one or two drops and apply to the face by gently patting into the skin. Apply after Emollient Extra Comfort Cream or Dual Moist Comfort Cream.
Ingredients
100% OLIVE SQUALANE
Oil 30 ml / 1.01 fl oz
Olivarrier (Korean retail): ₩36,000
Olivarrier (American retail): USD $38.00
OHLOLLY: USD $38.00
Peach & Lily: USD $42.00
YESSTYLE: USD $24.90
Deciem's description:
Water-free, alcohol-free, oil-free, silicone-free, nut-free, vegan, gluten-free, & cruelty-free
Squalane is a saturated and stable hydrocarbon that is found naturally in the skin. It has very high emollience, is an exceptional hydrator and can prevent ongoing loss of hydration that impairs dermal suppleness. Squalane is non-comedogenic and is suitable for use on all skin types. It can also be applied to hair to increase heat protection, add shine and reduce breakage potential.
Note: This product uses 100% pure plant-derived Squalane that is ECOCERT approved and is a USDA Certified Bio-based Product.
Directions
Apply a few drops daily or as needed to entire face ideally after water-based treatments. If irritation occurs, cease use and consult a physician. Use only as directed on unbroken skin. Patch testing prior to use is advised.
Ingredients
SQUALANE
Oil 30 ml
Deciem: USD $7.90
Packaging
Olivarrier
A transparent plastic bottle with a dropper cap. New bottles do not come with an extra security seal. The dropper doesn't reach all the way to the bottom of the bottle but it does get impressively close. Travel friendly as the lid screws on very tightly and doesn't stand the chance to shatter.
The Ordinary
A tinted glass bottle with a dropper cap. New bottles do not come with an extra security seal. The dropper doesn't reach anywhere near the bottom of the bottle. Not as travel friendly in terms of bottle material and screw-top quality.
Color, Texture, Finish, & Scent
There is virtually no difference between the actual squalane (oil) product of Olivarrier and The Ordinary.
The liquid is a scent-less and super-duper lightweight, dry-type facial oil. It spreads easily and sinks into the skin well. There is no slippery and slick feel that is typically associated with things "oily" in nature. Unlike the toner, essence, and cream, there is definitely a longer tacky and sheen finish period after application but it isn't that long either. Neither brand broke me out or caused any sensitivities.
How I Apply
Place one drop of oil on my forehead, one drop on each cheek, and maybe one for neck/chest. Gently rub and pat until the oil is evenly distributed.
Place 3-5 drops of oil onto the palm of my hands. Rub both palms together to create a thin layer between my hands. Gently press my palms and fingers across my face, neck, and chest.
Thoughts & Recommendations
People say a lot of what we pay for in beauty is in the packaging, especially if research and development are taken out of the equation. I think it can't be more true than in this situation with the Olivarrier Fluid Oil and Deciem The Ordinary 100% Plant-Derived Squalane.
The Ordinary is definitely the no frills option. You get what you "should" pay for and it will not break the bank. The brand get a standard bottle and fills it with high-quality ingredients/basic-yet-effective formulas.
Olivarrier probably spent a good deal of time deciding what the best delivery method would be, even for something as simple as a bottle of facial oil. You then pay for all the trial and error but in the end get the most user friendly experience.
Something to point out that isn't a deal-breaker: Olivarrier's dropper is shorter and thinner than The Ordinary's so it dispenses out a slightly smaller-sized drop of oil.
Something that is worth pointing out: After having used more than half the bottle of both, Olivarrier's dropper also has better control in the sense that nothing drips out until I squeeze the silicone bulb. It isn't the worst attribute because I have learned to work around the issue but still an "issue" nonetheless.
Something that is a deal-breaker (to me): The pipette of The Ordinary doesn't reach bottom of the bottle. This makes picking up the last 0.5" worth of product a pain. I have to tilt the bottle and pipette every which way to get it just right. The ultimately option would be to pour it straight out of the bottle onto my hands which throws quantity control out the window.
Some things that are a bit iffy: The Ordinary markets their product not as an oil. Their page clearly says the 100% Plant-Derived Squalane is "Oil-Free". There is also a lack of where exactly their squalane is derived from, whereas Olivarrier says theirs come from olives (sugarcane seems to be another plant of origin for some other brands that carry squalane).
With all that said, I can't say I regret purchasing either The Ordinary Squalane or Olivarrier Fluid Oil. The former is way more affordable just with meh packaging and the latter is far more expensive with great packaging. If I were to repurchase something squalane again, I will probably go for cheaper option BUT refill it into the better bottle. I would recommend those looking to try squalane for the first time to test with the less expensive option first to see how the skin reacts before dropping more dollars for the better bottle in the future.
